Transcribed from The Comprehensive Gazetteer of England and Wales 1894-5
Canterbury, a parliamentary and municipal borough, and a county borough in Kent. It is also a county in itself. It is the metropolitan see of all England, the capital of the county, an important market-town, a principal station on the L.C. & D.R., and also on the Ashford and Margate branch of the S.E.R., is 55 miles from London by road and 62 by railway, 14 from Margate, 16 from Dover, and 7 from Whitstable. Its site is a valley surrounded by hills, its appearance as seen from any point is highly picturesque, and its environs are diversified and very pleasant. Canterbury returned two members to Parliament until the Redistribution of Seats Act in 1885, when it was deprived of one. Area of the parliamentary borough, 3834 acres; population, 22,710; area of the county and municipal borough, 3971 acres; population, 23,062.
Public Buildings.£The guildhall, situated in High Street, was built in 1439 and rebuilt in 1697, has been exteriorly modernised, and contains pieces of ancient armour and some curious portraits. In 1880 the whole of the interior was rearranged and redecorated. The court or sessions-house is a modern structure in the suburb of St Augustine. The prison, a red brick building, adjoins the court-house in the suburb of St Augustine, is an erection of 1808 on the radiating plan, with the keeper's house and chapel in the centre. The music hall is in St Margaret Street. The theatre is in Guildhall Street, was built in 1861, and will hold 800 persons. The royal cavalry barracks were built in 1794, form three sides of a square, and present a striking appearance. The old infantry barracks were built in 1798, with accommodation for 2000 men, formed for some time a station for the horse and foot artillery, and are now used for depots of cavalry. The present infantry barracks were built in 1811. The military hospital is situated behind the barracks. The keep of the ancient castle stands in Castle Street, adjacent to the site of one of the city gates, measures 88 feet by 80, and is now occupied by the Gas and Water Works Company. The castle was taken without resistance in the time of King John by Louis of France, became afterwards a prison, and was notable for the incarceration of the Jews. The mound on which the donjon stood (now called the Dane John), has, along with part of the city walls, been converted into a city-mall 1130 feet long, laid out in spiral walks and shrubberies, and commands a grand view of the cathedral. An adjacent field outside the walls was the scene of the martyrdoms in the reign of Mary, and bears the name of the Martyrs' Field. The Archbishop's palace, founded in the time of the Saxons, rebuilt by Lanfranc and extended by Hubert Walter and Stephen Langton, stood in Palace Street, and its remains are now used partly as the junior department of the King's School, and partly as the house of the surveyor of the chapter. This was the scene of the death of the Black Prince, of the prelude of the murder of Thomas £ Becket, of the bridal feast of Edward I., and of banquets to Henry VIII., Charles V., and Elizabeth. The Canterbury Museum and Free Library, in Guildhall Street, was founded in 1826. The library has over 5000 volumes. The museum contains many curiosities and Roman antiquities. There is a school of art in connection with the Art Department, South Kensington. A swimming bath in Whitehall Boad was built in 1876. The Agricultural Hall, a very fine building just outside the city wall, is much used for cattle and flower shows. The Masonic Temple, situated in St Peter's Street, is a fine building. The town has an excellent system of sewage; the works are situated on the Stun'y Road. The cattle market is a large one; the markets are held fortnightly on Mondays. Other markets are held on Wednesday and Saturday in each week.
The edifice served, throughout Roman Catholic times, both as a cathedral and as a conventual church. A Benedictine priory stood connected with it, and was known as the convent of Christ's Church. A massive wall surrounded the precincts, and served at once for defence and for seclusion. The passage from the priory led to the choir-transept through a circular chamber, now used as a baptistery. The old library, on the site of the prior's chapel, contains many valuable books and manuscripts belonging to the late venerable Benjamin Harrison, M.A., archdeacon of Maidstone. The Cathedral library contains a large collection of Greek and Roman coins and old Bibles. The Chapter House, approached from the east walk, is a fine building with an exquisitely carved roof of Irish oak; its dimensions are£90 feet long, 37 broad, and 54 high. The cloisters are on the north side of the nave, measure 144 feet by 144, and have eight bays on every side. The space southward of the choir formed the cemetery, or God's acre, sown with the seed of the resurrection. ' The Oaks' was the convent garden; the Norman doorway is in the precinct gate eastward of the choir. The ancient stone house on the left side turning round the Becket's Crown formed the Honours, the guest-hall (a nave and aisles 150 feet by 40 feet), for the reception of visitors. Considerable remains of the infirmary are observable, the chapel and common-hall, of flint, with three tall pointed windows, built in 1342. Near it was St Thomas' well. At this point occurs ' the Dark Entry,' a Norman cloister built by Prior Wibert about 1167, with a curious bell-shaped tower, which served as the monks' conduit; above it is now the baptistery. On one side is the gate of the great cloisters. The arch and ruins towards the Green Court are those of La Gloriette, the prior's rooms built by Prior Hathbrand in 1379. Passing the chapter, once the prior's chapel library, the Prior's or Court Gate leads into the Green Court. In the Green Court is the Deanery, a fine house, containing the portraits of many former deans of Canterbury. It was built by Dean Godwin in 1570, after a fire on the site of the Prior's lodgings. In it Hooper welcomed Queen Mary. At the north-east corner a large gateway opens into the fellings or foreigns, the space beyond the conventual jurisdiction. On the north side were the ancient dean's great hall, water-house, granary, refectory, frater-house, brew-house, bake-house, and domestic buildings, among which great part of the dormitory remains, with a gateway and steps. At the north-west angle is the Norman precinct gate of the priory, which stood on the south side of the court; the back entrance to it or Larder Gate still remains. At the south-west angle is the arched door which led to the palace. The strangers' hall was on the west side. In the north-west angle is likewise the Norman staircase, with an open arcade which led into the north hall, 150 feet by 40 feet, allotted to the stewards of the prior court; the arches on which it was supported alone remain; above them the King's School was built by Mr Austen in 1855. They form a passage into the Mint yard. It is the only staircase of the period known to be in existence. In the King's School were educated Harvey the physician, Lord Thurlow, and Lord Tenterden. Within the ancient almonry, on the northwest of the Green Court, stood the chantry of St Thomas £ Becket, which Henry VIII. converted into a mint, and Cardinal Pole made the King's school. In the high wall, probably a portion of Lanfranc's building, leading to the northwest entrance of the cathedral, are the remains of the covered way to the cloisters, by which the primates entered, but their ordinary approach was through a large gateway with a square tower of flint and ashlar.
An abbey was founded by St Augustine outside the walls in the eastern suburb of Long-port. It was designed by him mainly as a mausoleum for bishops and kings; it became the burial-place of himself and his successors, and of Ethelbert and his successors; it possessed much grandeur as an edifice, and great wealth and consequence as a monastery; it was always regarded as more sacred and important than the cathedral, till the latter outshone it by means of the glory of Becket's shrine, and it competed to the last with the convent of Christ Church in the splendours and fetes of its guest-hall. The buildings of it were greatly injured at the Reformation, were, some time after, partly converted into a royal palace, were subsequently given to Lord Woton, were several times damaged by fire and by flood, were eventually degraded to the uses of a brewery, and were purchased in 1844 by Mr Beresford Hope, and the Augustine Missionary College was erected on the site.
a seaport town and municipal and parliamentary borough in Kent. The town stands on the coast, partly under chalk cliffs, at the mouth of the rivulet Dour, the end of Watling Street, and the terminus of two railways, 15 1/4 miles SE of Canterbury, and 76 from London. The "S.E.R. has a station in Beach Street, with a branch to the Admiralty Pier. The L.C. & D.R. has two stations-one at the Priory, on the Folkestone Road, and a terminal station in Strond Street, with a branch to the Admiralty Pier. It confronts Calais, is the nearest port of England to France, and has been noted from very early times as a main point of communication with the Continent.
Dover was the Dwffyrrha of the ancient Britons, the Dubrse of the Romans, the Dofra or Dofris of the Saxons, and the Dovere of Domesday. The ancient Britons had a camp at it, Ca£sar appeared off it prior to his landing at Deal, a Roman receiver of tribute was located at it before Caesar departed, another Roman functionary converted the British camp at it into a fort or castle in the year 43, Severus engirt it with strong walls about the year 200, Roman legions were stationed at it in the reigns of Valen-tinian and Theodosius, and King Withred of Kent protected it by a sea-wall about the year 700. The Saxons and the Danes were prevented from troubling it by its strength. King Arthur, in the romance, arrived at it from Brittany. The knights of the Norman Conquest burned it, but the Conqueror furnished money for rebuilding it and gave it to Bishop Odo. Its Norman masters enlarged and strengthened its castle, enriched it with numerous churches and monastic houses, and made it, according to Matthew Paris, " the lock and key of the kingdom." Stephen, the last of the Norman kings, died in it. Henry II. was here in 1156, and again with Louis of France in 1179. Richard I. sailed hence in 1189 to the Holy Land. Walter, Bishop of Carlisle, was here in 1205 on his way to Rome as Prince John's agent against the Barons.
King John assembled on the neighbouring downs in 1212 a force of 60,000 men to prevent a threatened descent of the French, and made on the western heights in 1213 his submission to Rome. The French laid siege to the castle in 1216 in the belief that the capture of it would give them the kingdom, but were forced to retire. Richard de la Wyche, Bishop of Chichester, preached a great crusade against Sicily at Dover in 1253 in presence of the king. Henry III. landed here in 1254, was here again in 1257, and embarked and relanded here at four other times, Richard, king of the Romans, was refused admittance hither by the ruling barons in 1259, and the queen landed here and was met by the kings of England and Germany in 126 6. Edward I. and Queen Eleanor landed here in 1274, and the king sailed hence in 1286, and relanded in 1289. The French burned the town in 1295, but were immediately driven out. Queen Margaret of France landed here in 1299. Edward II. was here in 1303, sailed, hence in 1308 to espouse the Princess Isabella of France, relanded with that " she-wolf" in the same year, and was here again in 1319. Queen Philippa arrived here with a vast retinue in 1327. Edward III. embarked and relanded here in 1329, and again in 1331. The corpse of King John of France was brought hither from London in 1363 for removal to France.
A French fleet, after inflicting much injury on Rye, Hastings, and other places in 1377, appeared off Dover during seven days, but was driven away by a storm. Anne of Bohemia, the bride of Richard II., arrived here in 1382, and a sudden sea-tumult, thought to have been caused by an earthquake, occurred at her landing. Richard II. after suffering disasters at sea landed at Dover in 1392, and with the Dukes of York and Gloucester sailed from it in 1398 to make peace with the Duke of Burgundy. The child-queen Isabella, daughter of the Emperor Charles IV., landed and re-embarked here. The Emperor Sigismund arrived here in 1416 to mediate between Henry V. and France, and sailed hence in the same year. Henry V. landed here after a terrible storm two months later in the same year, and again with Catherine of Valois in 1421, and he embarked hence with the forces for his last campaign, and was brought back hither for his funeral obsequies. The Earl of Warwick, the Kingmaker, embarked and relanded here in 1452, and again in 14GO. Falconbridge and the nucleus of the force with which he marched on London landed here in 1471. Henry VII. embarked here with his army in 1492 to join the Emperor Maximilian in the siege of Boulogne, and relanded in the same year. Henry VIII. went hence in 1513 for the invasion of France and the "Battle of Spurs." The Princess Mary, the bride of Louis XII., arrived in 1514 with Queen Catherine and Anne Boleyn, remained here a month, and went hence to France.
The Emperor Charles V. landed here and was met by Henry VIII. in 1520. Henry VIII., with Queen Catherine, went hence in the same year to meet Francis I. at the Field of the Cloth of Gold. Charles V. was here again in 1522. Cardinal Wolsey went hence in 1527 as an envoy to Francis I. Anne Boleyn embarked, relanded, and was married to the king here in 1529. Henry VIII. and Jane Seymour resided here in the summer of 1537, and Henry was again here in 1538, 1541, and 1544. Erasmus landed here and "was provoked to hurl some fine Latin invective against the extortion of the boatmen. Anne of Cleves was here in 1539. Philip sailed hence in 1555, and was parted then for ever from Mary. Philibert, Duke of Savoy, landed here to pay his addresses to the Princess Elizabeth. The Spanish Armada was watched here by a reserve force, and beaten within sight of the cliffs by the English fleet. Envoys to sue for the hand of Queen Elizabeth in marriage arrived here in 1571, 1572, and 1574. The queen herself was here in 1573, and stayed six days. Henrietta Maria, the bride of Charles I., arrived and was met here by Charles in 1625. Marie de Medicis embarked here in 1641. Queen Henrietta and the Princess Mary sailed hence in 1642, while the king remained on shore long watching their departure. The castle fell into the hands of the Parliamentarians by stratagem in 1642, and remained with them throughout the war in spite of many assaults of the Royalists. Charles II. arrived here at his restoration in 1660, and was again here in the same year to welcome the return of his mother and his sister. Mary D'Este, the bride of James Duke of York, landed and was married here in 1672. James II. in disguise landed here in 1679.
The fleet of William of Orange at his accession to the throne passed near the cliffs, and a courier role hence to London to announce its course. A violent earthquake was felt here in 1692. The Duke of Marlborough landed here in 1714. Christian VII. of Denmark landed here in 1768. The notorious Duchess of Kingston sailed hence in an open boat under night in 1776. Louis XVIII., at his restoration in 1814, was entertained here by the Prince Regent, and sailed hence to France. The allied sovereigns arrived here and departed hence in the same year. Marshal Blucher and the Duke of Wellington also landed here. The Persian Ambassador arrived here in 1819, Queen Caroline to claim her royal rights in 1820, and Chateaubriand, the French minister, in 1822. A grand banquet to the Duke of Wellington was given here in 1839. Prince Albert arrived here in 1840. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were here on a, visit in 1842, and landed here after a foreign tour in 1858. The Prince of Wales sailed hence in the latter year, and relanded here. King Leopold has landed here at all his visit& to England. Napoleon III., the Empress Eugene, and Victor Emmanuel landed here in 1855. the Duke of Con-naught resided here, when Prince Arthur in 1872, and in 1883 opened the new town-hall and people's park, which were named after him. In 1893 the Prince of Wales came to lay the foundation stone of the eastern arm of the new harbour.
Shakespeare has dramatised several of the events we have noted ; Gray, the poet, mentions Dover ; Lisle Bowles wrote a sonnet on it; Lord Byron alludes to it in some sarcastic lines ; Wordsworth and Mrs Hemans celebrate it in a happier strain ; Dickens gives prominence to it in his " David Cop-perfield. " Dr King, the antiquary, made observations at it in 1744 and 1787; and Cole, the antiquary, visited it in 1735 and 1769. The town gave the title of Earl in 1628 to Henry Carey, fourth Lord Hunston ; of Baron in 1685 to the Hon. Henry Jermyn ; of Duke in 1708 to James Douglas. Earl of Queensberry; of Baron in 1788 to the Hon. Joseph Y^orke; and of Baron again, in 1831, to the Right Hou. George J. W. Ellis.
The town occupies the entrance to a fertile vale, part of it overhung by an amphitheatre of chalk cliffs. and spreads thence, beneath the cliffs, along a curving shore. It has brilliant environs of hill and cliff and promontory; presents within itself romantic features ; commands, from its heights, a gorgeous prospect of the surrounding country, and across the straits to France, and is excelled by few towns in England in the mingled beauty and grandeur of its attractions. The walls which anciently engirt it described an irregular triangle, and had several towers. Four gates were on the south side and four on the west side, and the foundations of two of them, Severus Gate on the south and Adrian Gate on the west, remain. The western part of the town, contiguous to the harbour, consists of irregular narrow streets, and is the chief seat of business. The part thence along the shore includes lines of private houses (dates from 1791 and later periods), and is the chief resort of visitors and sea-bathers. The Marine Parade, Liverpool Terrace, and the houses under the East Cliff, were commenced in 1817, Guild-ford Lawn and Clarence Lawn a year or two later, the Esplanade in 1833, Waterloo Crescent in 1834, and Camden Crescent in 1840. Many handsome villas have been erected in the suburbs in recent years and the town much extended. A very progressive policy lias made itself apparent in the widening and improving of thoroughfares, the building of a school of art at a cost of about £10,000, and public baths.
The town-hall, opened in 1883, is a fine building of Kentish rag, Bath stone, and flint, erected at a cost of about £19,000. The ancient building was a Maison Dieu, founded by Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, in 1227 as a resting-place for strangers and pilgrims, and a belfry-tower of it, the refectory and chapel, part of the north aisle of a crypt, and a north-east sacristy remain. The building for the Dover Museum and Philosophical Institution was erected in 1849, and is a handsome structure. There are concert halls, a theatre, a custom-house, and a sailors"' home. The Gordon Boys' Orphanage was founded in 1884. There are five clubs and a Working Men's Institute. The public park, 23 acres in extent, was opened in 1883. There are several first-class hotels, good boarding-houses, reading-rooms, libraries, baths, and places of recreation. Bathing establishments are on the Marine Parade, bathing machines are on the beach, and bathing-places without machines are very near the town. A handsome promenade pier, 900 feet in length, with a width of 40 feet at entrance and 100 feet at top for the pavilion, was opened in 1893. It is approached from the Marine Parade. Near the Parade is a monument erected to the memory of the officers and men of the 60th Rifles who fell in the Indian Mutiny.
The castle crowns a chalk cliff 320 feet high, about a quarter of a mile north-east of the town, and occupies nearly 35 acres. Its parts are so numerous and complex that a clear idea could scarcely be given without the aid of a ground-plan, and they date variously from Roman, Saxon, Norman, and later times, but have, on the whole, been entirely remodelled since 1780. The castle, in its present state, may, in a general way, be said to consist of an upper and a lower court, defended by deep, broad, dry ditches, with subterranean communications to inner towers. The upper court is surrounded by a strong wall with towers, while the lower is encompassed on all sides, except next the sea, by an irregular wall or curtain, flanked by numerous towers. The entrance is on the south side of the principal tower by a flight of steps, leading by the west side to the house of the governor. The keep is supposed to occupy the site of the Roman pretorium, and has a height, at. the top of its parapet, of 465-8 feet above low water. The subterranean passages are supposed to have been formed in the reign of John. The cliff, with its vast congeries of almost every kind of fortification, looks like a citadel within a town, projects to the shore nearly as a promontory, and must, before the invention of cannon, have been as strong as Gibraltar.
Many changes and additions were made in the course of last century and in the early part of the present one to render this stronghold still more secure, and to fit it better for garrisons and for defence. Subterranean apartments, with communications, were formed for the reception of soldiery, and barracks excavated in the solid rock capacious enough to accommodate 2000 men. Fortifications also were erected on formidable heights to the west, which are higher than the keep. Four guard-houses were constructed there, ramparts and lines of defence were raised to defend them, and positions were made for seventy-two pieces of cannon. During the eleven years preceding 1814, likewise, entire regiments of soldiers, companies of miners and engineers, and a large train of masons, artificers, and labourers were continually employed in forming extensive excavations, lines, breast-works, batteries, redoubts, fosses, and all other strong constructions of military defence. Handsome barracks are situated above the town, and have communication with it by means of a military shaft. An arched passage leads to this from Snargate Street, and three spiral flights of 140 steps each, commencing at the extremity of the passage, wind round a large shaft or tower, open at the top to admit light. Above the barracks, on the hill, is the grand redoubt, surrounded by a deep fosse, and on the ridge of the hill, to the south-west of the redoubt, is the citadel, defended by deep ditches and numerous flanking and masked batteries. Lines of communication, either superficial or subterranean, connect all parts of the fortifications, and a military road passes over the hill from Archcliffe Fort to the entrance of the town from Folkestone. Deep wells and curiously-contrived tanks give an ample supply of excellent water; and a military hospital, a handsome edifice, .stands charmingly on the declivity toward the sea. The southern fortifications extend as far as the celebrated Shakespeare Cliff, or Hay Cliff, described in t1 King Lear." This is 350 feet high, almost perpendicular, and somewhat remarkable in form, but is by no means so sublime an object as might be supposed from Shakespeare's description. Additional barracks for 1200 men were erected, at a cost of £60,000, in 1855-56, and a school-church for the garrison was opened in 1858.
A curious piece of brass ordnance within the castle walls bears the name of Queen Elizabeth's pocket pistol. It is 24 feet long, is adorned with flowers and emblematical devices, and is said to be capable of carrying a 12-pound shot seven miles. It was cast at Utrecht in 1544, and presented to Henry VIII. by Charles V. A pharos watch-tower to the south of the keep is remarkable both as the only piece of the Roman works of the castle now remaining, and as almost the earliest regular masonry now existing in Great Britain. It forms a conspicuous object for miles around, and during the last 1800 years has served as a landmark to guide the mariner to the shores of England. It consists of a casing of flints and tufa, with bonding-courses of large Roman tiles, filled up in the interior with smaller stones and mortar, and it is octagonal outside and square inside, with walls 10 feet thick and a clear inner space of 14 feet each way; It was used for defence, and underwent alterations in the time of William the Conqueror, was repaired in 1259 by Lord Grey of Codnor, constable of the castle; was allowed afterwards to bear unaided all the abrasion of time and weather, and was at one time used as a government storehouse. The church of St Mary in the Castle, adjoining the pharos, occupies the site of the Roman Sacellum, is ascribed by some antiquaries to the age of the apocryphal King Lucius, or the period of the mission of St Augustine; seems certainly to date, in its oldest portions, from the middle of the 7th century; is chiefly Norman, but contains Saxon parts, has interspersions of Roman bricks and tiles in its walls, and was finely restored in 1862, under the direction of Sir Gilbert Scott, to be a garrison church. A special document of the time of the Conqueror speaks of " the castle of Dover, with the well of water in it." The position of the well eluded the most diligent investigation till the year 1811, when it was discovered in the keep in the thickness of the north-east wall. The castle has always been considered one of the principal defences of the country, and contains a garrison of about 750 men. Fort Burgoyne, an extensive modern work to the north, now forms the real line of defence on that side.
The parishes of St James and St Mary, the chapelries of Trinity and Christ Church, the extra-parochial places of Dover Castle and East Cliffe, and parts of the parishes of Charlton, Hougham, Buckland, and Guston are within Dover borough. Five other parishes, a chapelry, and a priory or collegiate church were formerly within it.
in St James' Street, at the foot of the Castle Hill, consists of nave, south aisle, and chancel, with low central tower, has a Norman doorway, and contains the ashes of the father and grandfather of Lord Chancellor Hardwicke, and a monument to Sir Nathaniel Wraxall. A larger church, to supersede this, in Maison Dieu Road, was built in 1861-63; is in the Decorated English style, of Kentish rag with Bath stone dressings; consists of nave and aisles 94 feet long and 66 feet wide, galleries at the sides, and a chancel 34 feet by 24, with an organ chapel on the south; and has a tower at the north-west angle, with crocketed pinnacles, and surmounted by a fine spire 150 feet high. The living is a rectory in the diocese of Canterbury ; value, £460 with residence. Patron, the Archbishop. St Mary's Church, in Cannon Street, consists of nave with aisles, a chancel with apse, and a west square tower with octagonal spire; dates from the llth century, but was mainly rebuilt in 1843-44, and contains monumental inscriptions for the actor Foote and the poet Churchill. The living is a vicarage; value, £880, in the gift of the Archbishop, Lord Warden, and Lord Lieutenant. Trinity Church, in Strond Street, was built in 1833 at a cost of £8000. The living is a vicarage; value, £250. Patron, the Archbishop. Christ Church, within Hougham parish, was built in 1844, and is a good structure of nave and aisles, with bell-turret, in the Early English style. The living is a vicarage; value, £350, in the gift of Trustees. The church of St Peter and. St Paul, Charlton, is a small building of flint and brick. A magnificent church to supersede this was built of stone in 1893 in close proximity with an entrance to Frith Road. The living is a rectory; value, £300. Patron, Keble College, Oxford. The Church of St Bartholomew is a good stone building in the Early English style. The living is a vicarage; value, £195. Patron, Keble College, Oxford. The church of St Andrew is at Buckland. The living is a vicarage; value, £320. There are Wesleyan, Congregational, Baptist, and Unitarian chapels, a Roman Catholic church, Jews synagogue, and a Friends' meeting-house.
was destroyed in 1537, St Peter's after 1611, St Nicholas in 1836, St Edmund's at some period not noted, Our Lady of Pity's or Archcliffe chapel in 1576. St Martin's-le-Grand Collegiate Church was founded in 691 by King Withred, refounded on a new site behind the market-place by King Henry II., and continued to be used for Divine service till 1528. Ruins of it, comprising the east piers of the central tower, the walls of the choir and its aisles, part of the transept, and the chapterhouse on the south side of the choir, with a portion of the crypt and a belfry, are still standing. Its churchyard contains the tomb of the poet Churchill, and was the place where Lord Byron wrote his well-known lines on one lt who blazed the comet of a season." The priory of St Martin, on the Folkestone Road, nearly opposite Christ Church, was founded in 1132 by Archbishop Corboil; had a large and magnificent church, which has entirely disappeared; made a great figure for a time in opposition to the Archbishops of Canterbury, but was at length subdued by them and became their property; and is now represented by a picturesque decorated principal gateway, and by the guest-house and the refectory, the latter nearly perfect, both very plain but massive, with Norman and Early English features. One of the priors, Ascelyn, became Bishop of Rochester, and another, Eichard, became Archbishop of Canterbury immediately after Thomas a Becket. Suffragan bisliops of Dover existed from 1537 till 1597, and were re-appointed in 1818. Dover College is an excellent boarding school for boys, founded in 1870; and is situated in the pleasant and extensive grounds of the priory. Dover High School for girls was founded in 1888. Aimshouses have existed from time immemorial.
from Folkestone to Dover was opened in 1844, and excels nearly every other line of equal extent in England in the engineering difficulties which it overcame. The part of it near and at Dover, especially, is very striking. The Abbots Cliff Tunnel is 1940 yards long, goes through hard chalk at a level of 12 feet above high water, and is ventilated by side galleries opening in the face of the cliff. The sea-wall beyond this is three-quarters of a mile long, 23 feet thick at the base, and from 60 to 70 feet high, consists of solid concrete, and is washed on one side by the sea, and overhung on the other by precipitous cliffs from 300 to 400 feet high. The Round Down Level, a space of about 7 acres in the course of the sea-wall, was formed by blasting a mass of chalk 300 feet long, 375 feet high, and 70 feet in mean width; and the blast on one occasion was done by galvanic batteries, with 18,500 Ibs. of gunpowder, making a noiseless explosion which caused the prodigious mass to glide in shattered fragments "like a stream into the sea." The Shakespeare Cliff Tunnel is 1417 yards long, is entered by two pointed parabolic arches, and has two parallel tunnels, each 30 feet by 12, with seven air-shafts and seven lateral outlets to the sea, through which the excavated chalk was discharged. The timber viaduct, close to the town, is 2000 feet long. The tunnel of the L.C .& D.R. from Canterbury passes through the western heights, is 680 yards long, 21^ feet high, and 31 1/4 feet wide, and goes on a level 280 feet below the summit of the hill. Submarine telegraphs go from Dover to Calais and Ostend. The first was originally laid in 1850 to Cape Grisnez, and was the earliest submarine telegraph ever undertaken, but broke in consequence of fretting on a ridge of rocks under the cape, and a successor to it was formed to Sangatte, nearer Calais.
Dover is the only one of the ancient Cinque ports which has not lost its harbour, and it would long ago have shared the fate of its brethren but for successive large and important government works. Its harbour once extended some way up the valley, but has gradually retreated in consequence of the debris brought down from the hills, and of a shifting bar of shingle. Works were undertaken for it by Henry VIII., which included an enormous pier, and cost £80,000. Fresh works were commenced by Elizabeth, and continued by James I., which cost great sums, and kept the harbour open. New works or reconstructions were done in 1737-79 at a cost of £22,000. The harbour at present includes the pent or inner harbour, 11^ acres in extent, with an entrance 60 feet wide, the basin or middle harbour 3^ acres, and the outer harbour 7 1/4 acres. The inner dock was enlarged, deepened, and reopened for traffic in 1874. A wet dock and a graving dock are on the west side; a dry dock and basin are to the south of the outer harbour; a quay, constructed in 1841, and admitting vessels of 200 tons, goes 400 feet along the lower side of the pent, and 431 feet on the south-east; a commercial quay, formerly called pent-side, was formed in 1834; an addition of 4 acres to the outer harbour, enclosed by quays, was made in 1844; and a sea-wall, commencing at the north pier-head, and continued along Waterloo Crescent and the Esplanade, was built in 1850. The entrance of the harbour between the piers is 150 feet wide, and has a depth of from 14 to 18 feet of water. A harbour of refuge, immediately outside and eastward, was commenced in 1847. The first portion of the Admiralty pier, which forms the western arm of the harbour, 800 feet long, 90 feet broad at the base, 60 feet broad at the top, and commanding 10 feet of water at the lowest tide, was constructed in 1848-51. A second portion was begun in 1854, and occupied nearly thirty years. It is considered one of finest examples of sea-work in the world. The total cost was nearly £1,000,000. Two 81-ton guns were placed at the end of the pier in 1882. The works sustained considerable injury from furious storms in 1850 and 1855, yet continued substantially progressing, and meanwhile did valuable service in stopping the passage of beach which had so often choked the old harbour. In 1893 the Dover Harbour Board commenced the construction of the eastern arm, in order to provide a purely commercial harbour of ample dimensions, and it is expected that it will be completed in about seven years. The new works comprise eastern arm, landing jetties, and Admiralty pier extension. The eastern arm, at a cost of £414,000, is to contain a length of 1260 feet of ironwork, beyond which stonework extends to the distance of 1500 feet. The depth of water at entrance at lowest tides will be 40 feet, and the area 60 acres, while the estimated cost is £600,000.
Dover has a head post office, two banks, maintains fully its old character as the chief point of England's communication with the Continent, figures as the head of the Cinque ports with a body of 56 pilots for the Channel service, and publishes four weekly newspapers. Markets are held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and apart from that connected with the mail and packet service to the Continent,. the trade carried on is chiefly in shipbuilding, sail-making, rope-making, corn-grinding, and the supply of ships' stores.
Dover was chartered by Edward I., is governed by a mayor, 6 aldermen, and 18 councillors. The limits of the municipal and parliamentary boroughs are co-extensive. The area is 1256 acres ; population, 33,300. The parliamentary borough returned two members to the House of Commons until the passing of the Redistribution of Seats Act, 1885,. which reduced the number to one. The number of vessels registered as belonging to Dover in 1893 was 47 (3783 tons). The entries and clearances each average 4200' (960,000 tons) per annum. The customs revenue in 1893' was £54,160.
a town, a parish, and a parliamentary borough in Kent. The town is suburban to London, within the jurisdiction of the Metropolitan police and the Central Criminal Court, and of the London County Council, is separated from Deptford only by the river Ravensboume, and stands on the Thames, opposite the Isle of Dogs, with stations on the L.C. & D.R. and S.E.R., 3 miles by rail and 5 by water SE by E of London Bridge.
Greenwich was known to the Saxons as Grenawic, signifying " Green Town," and seems to have taken that name from the verdure of its site, or of its environs, as seen from the Thames. Eitruda, niece of King Alfred, gave it, along with Deptford and Lewisham, about the year 900 to the Abbey of St Peter at Ghent. The Danes took possession of it in 1011 and other years, made camps on the high grounds above it at Blackheath, and slew, on the site of its parish church, Archbishop Alfege, whom they had brought from Canterbury. It figured at Domesday as Grenviz, and belonged then to Bishop Odo. It appears to have soon, by royal grant, reverted to Ghent Abbey; it was held by that establishment till the suppression of alien monasteries by Henry V.; it then reverted to the Crown, hut was soon given to the Carthusian priory of Skene, and at the Reformation it again came back to the Crown. Yet a part of it, apparently from the time of the royal grant to Ghent Abbey, was always reserved by the Crown, and that part, together with the rest, after the Reformation, owing to the pleasantness of the locality add the salubrity of the air, was a favourite residence of the kings and queens of England, and it has ever since been rich in historical associations. Edward I. and some of his successors made it their occasional abode. A splendid tournament was held here in 1217. Henry IV. resided much here, and in 1408 he dated his will from it. Henry V. gave it for life to Thomas Bean-fort, duke of Exeter, on whose death in 1417 it passed to Humphrey, duke of Gloucester, uncle to Henry VI. That duke in 1433 rebuilt or enlarged the manor house, called it Placentia, raised round it some fortifications enclosed in the park, and erected a tower on the site of the present observatory. Edward IV. re-enlarged the palace and founded in its vicinity a minorite friary. Henry VII. made the palace his favourite residence. Henry VIII. was born in it; was baptized in the parish church; married here Catherine of Arragon and Anne of Cloves; kept here his Christmas in 1521, 1525, 1527, 1537, and 1543; held here a series of tournaments and gorgeous spectacles; received here in 1527 a splendid embassy from France; celebrated here in 1536 the festival at which Anne Boleyn was arrested; and generally throughout his reign maintained here a surpassing display of luxury and magnificence. His daughters, Mary and Elizabeth, were born here. Edward VI. died here. Elizabeth, as figured by Shakespeare, was baptized here in the " Friar's Church; " as figured by Sir Walter Scott, went here through the scene of Raleigh's first interview, and of his mudded cloak; resided in the palace here during most of her reign; was entertained in the park in 1539 by the city of London; received here in 1585 the Dutch deputies, offering her the Crown of the Low Countries; received here in 1586 and 1597 embassies from Denmark and Poland; was seen here in 1598 in all her magnificence of costume by Hentzner the traveller; and watched from the windows of the palace here the vessels of her adventurous seamen as they floated past on their way to fresh discoveries in the new world. James I. resided a considerable time here, and his queen, Anne of Denmark, improved the palace, walled in the park, and laid the foundation of " The House of Delight." Their daughter, the Princess Mary, was baptized here with great pomp in 1606, Charles I., previous to the Civil War, often resided here, and his queen, Henrietta Maria, completed Queen Anne's " House of Delight." Charles II., after the Restoration, occasionally resided here, ordered the demolition of the decaying palace, and commenced the building of a new one on a most splendid scale, but was not able to erect more of it than what now forms a portion of the western wing of the present royal hospital The palace was finished by William and Mary. Queen Mary, in 1688, George I., and the mother of George III., landed at Greenwich. Lord Nelson's body was brought here in 1805-6 from Trafalgar. George IV. embarked here amid a vast display of magnificence in 1822 for Scotland. Sir W. Boreham, of the time of Charles II., resided in an old carved house near Crawley's Wharf. Dr Johnson, in 1737, " struck with the seat that gave Eliza birth," lodged in the house in Church Street next the " Golden Hart," and during walks in the park composed great part of his " Irene." Lord Chesterfield lived in what became the Ranger's house. Vanbrugh built on Maze Hill a residence after the model of the Bastille, and called Vanbrugh House. Dr Bumey had a school in Stock-well Street, and Dr Crombie near Maze Hill chapel. Admirals Lawson and Leake also were residents, and Ducarel the antiquary, Goddard the Gresham professor, and Munro the physician were natives. Greenwich gave the title of Duke to the great Argyle.
The park and Blackheath on one side, and the Thames on the other, give Greenwich very fine environs. See BLACKHEATH. The approach by the Thames is eminently striking. Its highest attraction is the magnificent hospital, presenting to the river an imposing range of beautiful though unadorned Grecian buildings, extending for several hundred feet along its side, and divided into two wings by a noble lawn, with a terrace and handsome approach by steps to the river. The ever-green verdure of the lawn forms a very striking and pleasing relief to the massive pillars and porticos with which it is surrounded. Each wing recedes to a considerable distance from the river, and is crowned in its retreat by a lofty dome, behind all which rise the hills of the park, their verdure broken into various shades by its groves of elm, pine, and chestnut, and the summit adorned by the Royal Observatory. The older parts of the town are very irregularly built. Most of their streets axe narrow, and have insignificant houses, yet some modern parts, with a spacious street leading from the parish church to the hospital, and with a continuation of the road beyond the hospital to the lower Woolwich Eoad, are great improvements. A new town also has arisen in the east. Numerous elegant villas are on the outskirts, in the vicinity of Blackheath.
The market-house was rebuilt in 1831. The court-house, in Burney Street, is a place of county courts for Greenwich, Deptford, Lewisham, Ridbrook Eitham, and Mottingham. There is a theatre and a music hall. The public baths and wash-houses in London Street were built in 1851, and are a neat structure in the Jacobean style. The lecture hall, on the Royal Hill, is the home of the Greenwich Literary and Recreation Institute. The monument to Lieutenant Bellot, the Arctic navigator, stands in front of the left wing of the Royal Hospital, was erected by public subscription, and is an obelisk of red granite, inscribed simply with Bellot's name. The other noticeable public structures are mostly of far higher mark, and will be noticed in subsequent, paragraphs.
The livings within Greenwich parish are St Alphege, Trinity, Christ Church, St Paul, St Peter, and St Mary; and all are vicarages in the diocese of Rochester. Value of St Alphege, £260 with residence. Patron, the Crown. Trinity, £4: 00 gross value. Patron, the Vicar of Greenwich. Christ Church, £500 gross value with residence. Patron, the Vicar of Greenwich. St Paul, £450 gross value, united with residence. St Peter, £315 with residence. St Mary united with St Alphege. The old church of St Alphege was ancient, had a chantry belonging to a guild of the Holy Cross, contained a portrait on glass of Humphrey Duke of Gloucester, contained also a monument to the antiquary Lambard, which was removed to Sevenoaks, contained likewise several other monuments and brasses, one of which was to Thomas Tallis, king's musician in the time of Henry VIIL, and became ruinous in 1710. The present church was built in 1718, was one of Queen Anne's fifty new churches, is a large edifice in poor, mixed Grecian style, has a square tower, with cupola and small spire, and contains portraits of Charles I., Queen Anne, and George L There were buried, in the churchyard, Admiral Stainer, who was famous during the Protectorate, General Wolfe, the conqueror of Quebec, the Duchess of Bolton, the original " Polly Peachum" of Gay's opera, Lord Aylmer, Sir C. Hardy, and the author Newcourt. The interior was thoroughly restored in 1869. Christ Church was built in 1849, St Paul's Church in 1868, St Peter's Church in 1865. St Mary's is a chapel of ease to the parish church of St Alphege. A Presbyterian chapel and a Roman catholic chapel are handsome structures. There are also three Congregational, two Baptist, and two "Wesleyan chapels, a mission church at East Greenwich, and a mission chapel.
The palace founded by Charles II., forming the west wing of the hospital, was begun in 1664, after designs by Webb, and completed in 1698, under the direction of Wren. The edifice was converted by William and Mary into an asylum for disabled seamen of the royal navy, was grandly extended in their reign and in that of Anne, was first opened for the reception of " pensioners " in 1705, and was much enlarged in the time of George IV. The style is Ionic, the general design is the original one by Webb, colonnades, cupolas, and the features of the great hall are by Wren, and brick buildings to the west are by Van-brugh. A terrace in front, on the river, is 875 feet long, and a great quadrangle is a square of 273 feet. A statue of George II., by Rysbrach, is in the centre of the quadrangle, and was cut from a block of marble, weighing 11 tons, taken from the French by Sir George Rooke. The buildings form four great masses or courts-the western one near the river King Charles', the eastern one near the river Queen Anne's, the north-western one King William's, the north-eastern one Queen Mary's. The great hall is in King William's building, measures 106 feet in length, 56 feet in width, and 50 feet in height, is well-proportioned and artistic, has emblematic paintings over the ceiling and the side walls, executed by Su-James Thornhill, between 1708 and 1727, at a cost of £6685, and occasioning it to be often called the painted hall, and contains pictures of illustrious admirals and famous battles, collected chiefly through the exertions of Edward H. Locker, Esq., memorials of Nelson exhibited in a glass-case, and a marble statue of Captain Sir William Peel, erected by his brother, the Hon. Frederick Peel, in 1861. The chapel is in Queen Mary's building, has the same dimensions as the great hall, was rebuilt after a destructive fire in 1789, under direction of " Athenian Stewart," and contains an altar-piece of the shipwreck of St Paul, by West, a monument to .Admiral Sir Richard G. Reats, by Chantrey, and a monument to Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy, by Behnes. A library is in King Charles' building, and has a bust of Dibdin, the author of the famous naval songs. The income of the hospital includes aa annual parliamentary grant of £20, 000, the proceeds of the large estates of the Earl of Derwentwater, forfeited in 1715, and the proceeds of various private bequests, including particularly one of £20, 000 by Robert Osbaldeston, and amounts to upwards of £130, 000 a year. The Painted Hall and the chapel are open to the public. The hospital formerly received about 2700 pensioners, but, by an Act of Parliament, out-pensioners were substituted, and the buildings are now occupied as a Royal Naval College, receiving for this purpose 700 students, all officers of the Royal Navy and Marine Artillery and Engineers being admitted, as well as a limited number of the officers of the mercantile marine. The old infirmary of the hospital, situated to the west of the main buildings, has been occupied since 1870 by the Seamen's Hospital Society; the society receives no aid from Government beyond the free use of the building.
This institution was incorporated with the Royal Hospital in 1825. The building stands between the hospital and the park, includes at its centre the edifice which was called the " House of Delight," which was the residence of Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I., and which, next to Whitehall banqueting-house, is, the best extant memorial of the palaces of the Stuarts,' consists of two wings, each 146 feet long, connected by a colonnade 180 feet long, serves for the training of the sons of seamen to the sea service, is arranged into two schools, upper and lower, with 400 boys in each, and has good play-grounds, gymnastic apparatus, a rigged ship for instruction and exercise, and a small observatory.
This extends from the Royal Hospital to the high ground of Blackheath, comprises about 200 acres,, is agreeably diversified with height and hollow, presents within itself very pleasing scenery, and commands, from two eminences, most charming views. One of these eminences is that surmounted by the Observatory, and looks away over London and the Thames, and the other bears the name of the One-Tree Hill, is situated near the east border, and looks away so far as to Windsor Castle. " Would you believe," said Walpole to Bentley, in 1755, "I had never been in Greenwich Park£ I never had, and am transported. Even the glories of Richmond and Twickenham hide their diminished heads." The park, as it now exists, is only about one-half of the original one connected with the royal palace, and it was laid out, in the time of Charles II., by the famous Le Notre, who presided over the gardens of Versailles. The elms in it are said by Evelyn to have been planted in 1664, but the Spanish chestnuts, though arranged in regular avenues similarly to the elms, appear to be of greater age. The park is open to the public. Greenwich Fair, notable for frolic, was partly held in it, during Whitsun week, till 185 6, and was then abolished. Numerous tumuli, containing spear-heads, human bones, and other relics, were within the park.
This stands on an eminence in the park, about 300 feet above the level of the Thames. Its site was occupied by a tower called Mirefleur, built by Duke Humphrey, and said to have been the original of the Tower of Miraflores figuring in " Amadis de Gaul." The older part of the observatory was erected in 1675, after designs by Wren; the lower part is the residence of the astronomer-royal. The parts in sight are little used for any operations; but two turrets on the leads are in constant active service. One of them has an anemometer, for hourly registering the direction and force of the wind; and the other has a time-ball, about 6 feet in diameter, which drops at one o'clock, notes the time to the shipping on the Thames, and telegraphs it to time-balls and signal-guns at distant stations. Meridional observations of the sun, the moon, and the stars are regularly made, to the aggregate of upwards of 5000 in the year.; magnetic observations also are made, the choicest instruments of the London chronometer-makers are brought hither to be tested, and all English charts and maps reckon from this point the degrees of longitude, E and W. The first astronomer-royal appointed for the observatory was Flamsteed, and others have been Halley, Bradley, Maskelyne, Pond, Airy, and Christie. The cost of maintaining the observatory is about £10, 000 per annum.
The proprietary school was established in 1849, gives a first-class education at moderate expense, and has an average attendance of 150 pupils. Eoan's Grey-Coat School was founded in 1643, educates and clothes poor native boys of Greenwich parish. Foreman's Green-Coat School was founded in 1672, educates and supports sons of native seamen, watermen, or fishermen. The Blue-Coat School was founded in 1752, educates and supports poor native girls. National schools are at Church Passage and Blackheath Hill; industrial schools at East Greenwich and Blackheath Hill; infant schools at East Street, Lamb Lane, and Blackheath Hill; and a mission school for girls at Trafalgar Eoad. Queen Elizabeth's college was founded by Lambarde the antiquary in 1558, had originally an income of £104, devoted to the maintenance of 24 men and their wives, has acquired additional income from bequests, underwent enlargement in 1819 by the erection of tenements for aged persons, and gives an allowance of £20 to each almsman. Trinity Hospital, commonly called Norfolk College, was founded in 1613 by the Earl of Northampton, has a square central tower, gives support to poor men of Greenwich and Shottesham parishes, and has an income of £660, The Jubilee almshouses were erected in 1809, in honour of the jubilee of the 50th year of the reign of King George IIL; other houses were added to these from time to time, but in 1878-79 the whole of them were taken down and rebuilt, and they now form a handsome block of 14 houses facing the Greenwich Road. The Penn almshouses were erected in 1884 by Mrs Ellen Penn, in memory of her husband, and consist of 9 houses. There are several smaller almshouses in the town. The total amount of charities is very considerable.
Transcribed from The Comprehensive Gazetteer of England and Wales 1894-5
Maidstone, a market and assize town, a parliamentary and municipal borough, and a parish in Kent. The townstands on the river Medway, with three stations on the S.E.R., one of which is called Maidstone Barracks and another Tovil; the L.C. & D. R. also has communication with the town from Swanley Junction via Sevenoaks. Acreage of the municipal and parliamentary borough, which is conterminous with the civil parish, 4008; population, 32,145. Maidstone dates from very early times. It is said to have been the third largest city of the ancient Britons, and to have been called by them Medwag or Megwad, from the name of the river. It was known to the Romans as Ad Madam, also from the name of the river, which the Romans called Madus. Some antiquaries suppose it to have been the station Vag-niacse of Antoninus, and they fortify their opinion by the fact that numerous Roman remains have been found here; but others hold the opinion as tpeii to doubt. The town was called Medwegestan or Medwagston by the Saxons, and appears in Domesday Book as Meddestane, and it then had several mills, eel fisheries, and saltpans. The manor be- longed from an early period to the Archbishops of Canterbury ; was transferred to Henry VIII. by Cranmer; remained with the Crown till the time of Edward VI.; was given then to Sir Thomas Wyatt of Allington; reverted, at Wyatt's rebellion, to the Crown; was given by Charles I. to the Hattons; and passed in 1720 to the Eomneys. The Archbishops of Canterbury for a time had no residence in it; but Archbishop Laugton acquired the house of W. de Com-hill in it in the time of King John; Archbishop Ufford commenced the reconstruction of that house into a palace in 1348 ; and subsequent archbishops completed, enlarged, and adorned it, and used it as a favourite residence. The palace was given by Queen Elizabeth to Sir John Astley, passed to Sir Jacob Astley, Charles I.'s Baron of Reading, and was alienated from the Astleys to the first Lord Romney (1685-1750), and in the Jubilee year (1887) was purchased by the corporation, and is now used for several town purposes. The town acquired importance from the presence of the archbishops ; received some enrichments at their hands; was long the halting-place of pilgrims to Canterbury, and had, for their use, an edifice called the Travellers' Hospital or College, founded by Archbishop Boniface. Some Protestant martyrs were burnt in the town in the time of Mary; the plague devastated it in 1593-95,1604,1607, and 1666-68; and Fairfax, at the head of 10,000 men, stormed it in 1648. About 2000 Royalist troops, under Sir John Mayney, held it against Fairfax; they made such stout resistance as to yield the ground only inch by inch, and after a struggle of five hours they retreated into the church, and there made terms for surrender. Clarendon says, " It was a very sharp encounter, very bravely fought, with Fairfax's whole strength, and the veteran soldiers confessed that they had never met with the like desperate service during the war." Archbishop Lee, Bishop Ralph de Maidstone, Bishop Walter de Maidstone, Jenkyns the composer, Woollett the engraver, Jeffrys the painter, Broughton the secretary at Charles I.'s trial, and Newton the local historian were natives; and Earl Winchelsea takes from the town the title of Viscount.
occupies a fine situation. It is screened by surrounding hills, rising from the beautiful vale of the Medway ; it stands principally on the slopes of a hill, ascending from the right bank of the river, and declining toward the W and the S; it derives ventilation and cleanliness from the nature of its site; it is noted for both the excellence of its water and the dryness of its soil; and it enjoys the amenities of a surrounding country rendered peculiarly charming by innumerable orchards and hop-gardens. It consists chiefly of four streets, intersecting one another near the public drinking fountain, and of smaller ones leading from them; and it extends upwards of a mile from N to S, and is about a mile in breadth. The High Street ascends to the W, and is very spacious. A portion of the centre is taken up by a block of buildings called the Middle Row, at the top of which is the town hall. The London and Tonbridge roads, partly edificed with elegant modern houses, go off from the bridge, and the Lock Meadows, named from a park or pleasaunce which anciently belonged to the Episcopal Palace and the Travellers' Hospital, extend on the same side of the river. A bridge over the Medway to replace an older structure was built in 1878-79 at a cost of £32,000, and is composed entirely of granite and Kentish rag-stone. A general view of the town, owing to the configuration of the ground on both sides of the vale, is not easily obtained; but such partial views as can be got are very fine. One of the best is from a point on the river bank below the W end of the churchyard; and this shows the old palace, the old hospital, and All Saints' Church in a very picturesque group. Other views take much character from gabled houses and decorated fronts, and from the barracks, now the depot of the Royal West Kent (Queen's Own) Regiment, and formerly an important cavalry depot. A few of the houses are ancient, and more or less quaint or picturesque, but nearly all are modern and handsome. A tendency to extension became manifest in the third decade of the 19th century; and it worked on all sides, particularly to the E of Gabriel's Hill and Week Street, on the Ashford Road, and latterly very much on the other side of the river, but it has not seriously altered the general aspect of antiquity. The old palace, as enlarged by Archbishop Courtenay, and as both enlarged and adorned by Archbishop Morton, is now the property of the Corporation. A long range of building, on the opposite side of the road, originally part of the palace offices, and now used for stables and tan stores, shows the original exterior little altered, exhibiting windows and an external stair of Late Decorated English character. A small building at the end of Mill Street, immediately at the gate turning down to the palace, is probably of the 14th century, and shows interesting architectural features. Another ancient house, with very rich carved and pargeted front, probably of the time of James I., is on the right on entering High Street from the railway station. Chillington House, in St Faith Street, originally the court-house of the manor, and now occupied as the public museum, belongs to the early part of the 16th century, exhibits interesting features of that period, and contains.a fine collection of local Roman antiquities, and a collection of fossils and birds from the neighbourhood, and numerous other curiosities. Altogether it is one of the most complete and interesting museums in the country. A new wing, consisting of a very fine art gallery, erected by Sir Bentlif, was added in 1890. The Travellers' Hospital or College, situated on the slope between All Saints' Church and the river, underwent considerable alterations in 1845, but still presents to antiquarian observers a very fine upper gateway tower, a long downward range of quondam priests' apartments, a lower tower at the end of that range, part of the master's house occupying the side of a court toward the river, a ruined tower adjoining that house, and a second or back gateway. The hospital was originally founded in 1260 by Archbishop Boniface; was incorporated in 1395 by Archbishop Courtenay, with a new college of secular priests founded by him contiguous to All Saints' Church; and continued to flourish till suppressed in the first year of Edward VI. The ruins, besides the interest of their architectural features, possess the interest of rich variety of tinting from weather-worn stone and clustering ivy, and the upper gateway tower commands one of the best views over the town and vale.
stands in High Street near the centre of the town, and is a large plain building. The Assize Court and the Prison stand at the top of Week Street on a plot of 14 acres, form together one fine structure of Kentish rag, and were built in 1818 at a cost of £200,000. The building has recently been much improved. The court-house is in the front, comprises a commodious range of rooms, and is used both for assizes and for quarter sessions. The prison has capacity for over 700 prisoners. The Royal West Kent Barracks stand below on the river side, and have accommodation for about 700 men. At the top of Union Street is a large brick building erected in 1857 as a barracks for the West Kent Militia, but since sold to private owners. The Corn Exchange was erected over the market for meat, fish, and vegetables, at a cost of £4000; is entered by an archway from High Street at the Mitre Hotel; and was thought for a time to be very commodious, but the business done in it, originally extensive and multifarious, grew rapidly, and improvements on it, long felt to be much needed, were completed in the spring of 1867. There are assembly rooms, public baths, and public drinking-fountains. The baths stand in Fair Meadow, and were erected in 1852, and iu 1894 underwent considerable enlargement. A drinking-fountain in the High Street, erected in 1862 at the expense of Mr Eandall, is an open Gothic quadrangular structure enclosing a life-size marble statue of the Queen and surmounted by richly-crocketed canopy, consists of red Mansfield stone in the base and of Portland stone in the upper part, and has at the angles columns of red granite with carved capitals each surmounted by a statue-figure of a winged angel. There is an interesting museum, and adjoining it technical schools of science and art erected in 1894. The County Lunatic Asylum stands at Banning Heath, and is an extensive range of building with accommodation for nearly 1500 inmates. The West Kent General Hospital was enlarged in 1889. The mechanics' institution, as well as the public museum, is held in Chilington House, and it has a library of upwards of 13,000 volumes, and maintains lectures during the winter months. There are also a Church Institute with assembly rooms and gymnasium, a freemasons' hall, two political clubs, three banks ; and five weekly newspapers are published. In 1894 a recreation ground was laid out costing over £5000.
Mersham, a village and a parish in Kent. The village stands 1 1/2 mile NNW of Smeeth station on the S.E.R., and 3g- miles SE of Ashford. It has a post, money order, and telegraph office under Ashford. Acreage of parish, 2680; population, 704. Mersham Hatch is a seat of the Knatch-bulls, has belonged to that family since the time of Henry VIII., and is a red brick mansion, rebuilt in the 18th century. The living is a rectory in the diocese of Canterbury; gross value, £648 with residence. Patron, the Archbishop of Canterbury. The church is ancient but excellently restored, comprises naves, aisle, and chancel, and contains many memorials to, with the private chapel of, the Knatchbull family.
Rochester, a municipal and parliamentary borough, a market-town, and a parish in Kent, and a diocese in Kent, Essex, and Herts. The borough stands on Watling Street, on the right bank of the river Medway, with stations on the L.O. & D.R. and S.E.R., 29 miles E by S of London. It adjoins Strood on the W and Chatham on the E, in such manner that the three towns practically form one. The two railways, from stations at respectively Chatham and Strood, give it inland communication with all parts of the kingdom; and the river Medway, from its own quays, give it navigation both inward for barges to Maidstone, and outward for seaborne vessels to the Thames and the ocean.
An ancient British stronghold seems to have occupied the site of Rochester. A Roman castrum succeeded, and took the name of Dnrobrivae or Durobrivis, from the Celtic words dwr and briva, the former signifying " water," the latter indicating " a ferry." A Saxon chieftain called Hrof afterwards settled at it, and occasioned it to be known to the Saxons as Hrofe-ceastre, signifying " Hrofs castle." Ethelbert walled it in 600-4, and founded at it a missionary church which became the nucleus of the cathedral. Ethelred plundered it in 676. The Danes attacked it in 839 and 885, and were driven off in the latter year by Alfred. Etheldred besieged it in 986. The Danes sacked it in 998. William the Conqueror built a new castle on the site of the Saxon or Roman fort, and gave it to Bishop Odo. William Rufus besieged and took the castle in 1088. Henry I. attended the dedication of the new or reconstructed cathedral in 1130. The city was greatly injured by fire in the same year, and in 1137 and 1177. John took the castle from the barons in 1215, and Louis the Dauphin retook it in the following year. A tournament was held at the city, in the presence of Henry IIL, in 1251. Simon de Montford took the city, and besieged the castle, in 1264. Wat Tyier in his insurrection attacked the castle, and Edward IV. repaired it. Henry VIII. and Charles V. visited the city in 1522. Two Protestant martyrs were burnt in it in 1556. Elizabeth visited it in 1573, and Charles II. at the Restoration. The plague ravaged it in 1665. James II. embarked at it in his flight in 1688. Christian VII. slept at it in 1768. Queen Victoria went repeatedly through it in 1856. John de Salisbury, the friend of A'Becket, was a native; Dickens the novelist spent in it the earliest years of his life; and the families of Wilmot and Hyde took from it the title of Earl.
The city is straggling, and extends over considerable space along the river. The main street is nearly in a line with the main street of Strood, and is continuous with the main street of Chatham. The streets for the most part are irregularly aligned, but they are well paved and have been much improved. The general view in combination with Strood and Chatham, as seen in the approach from the W, is very striking; discloses a curious mixture of old and new things, of quietude and activity; and includes, as chief objects, the castle and cathedral in the city, Fort Pitt on a hill above Chatham, and a throng of ships and steamers in the river. The city walls were suffered to fall into decay after the time of Edward IV., but remains of them still exist, and the fortifications of Chatham afford ample defence. The castle stands at the SW angle of the city; was defended on one side by the Medway, on the other sides by a deep fosse; retains traces of the fosse and much of the outer walls, with square open towers at intervals; and consists now chiefly of a Norman quadrangular keep, 70 feet square, 104 high, and from 11 to 13 thick in the walls, arranged in four storeys, and surmounted at each angle with a buttress-tower 12 feet square and rising above the principal mass. In 1883 the castle with its grounds was purchased by the corporation from the Earl of Jersey, and the grounds have been laid out for public recreation. A hillock called Boley Hill is close to the castle, seems to be partly or even mainly artificial, and is crowned by the house of Satis where Watts entertained Queen Elizabeth. Many Roman bricks, urns, coins, and other relics have been found on Boley Hill and around the castle. A wooden bridge of uncertain antiquity crossed the Medway in a line with High Street, was defended at its E end by a wooden tower and strong gates, and continued in use till the fifteenth year of Richard II. A stone bridge about 40 yards nearer the castle succeeded the wooden one, was 560 feet long and 24 wide between the parapets, had eleven arches, and continued in use till 1856. An iron bridge, on the site of the wooden one, was erected in 1857-58 at a cost of £200,000, has a centre arch 170 feet in span and two side arches each 140 feet in span, and includes toward the E end a swing bridge, turning on a pivot, and laying open a passage 50 feet wide for the transit of vessels. A railway viaduct, taking the North Kent line onward to a junction with the London, Chatham, and Dover line, crosses immediately below, and is an ungainly structure. The town-hall was built in 1687, is a brick structure with Doric columns, and contains portraits of William III., Queen Anne, and Sir C. Shovel. The clock-house, on the site of the old guildhall, was built in 1706 by Sir C. Shovel, and projects into High Street. The county court office in High Street was built in 1862, and is a commodious brick edifice in the Tudor style. A new corn exchange, to conjoin with the old one, was erected in 1870-71. There are Liberal and Conservative clubs. Other public buildings are the theatre, the custom-house, and the Fort Clarence military prison.
The original cathedral grew out of the church founded in 604, and was in a completely ruined condition at the time of the Norman Conquest. The present cathedral was commenced by Bishop Gundulph soon after 1077, did not attain sufficient commodiousness or character to be dedicated till 1130, underwent enlargements and alterations at various periods till 1479, and was renovated or repaired at a cost of £14,000 in 1827 and 1834. The pile comprises a nave of eight bays with aisles, a St Mary's chapel of three bays on the SE side of the nave, a west choir and transept each of one bay, a main transept with a four-chapelled aisle in one part and a tower called Gnndulph's Tower in another, a choir with aisles separated from it by solid walls, a central tower, an east ambulatory, and a Lady chapel of four bays. The nave is 159 feet long, 65 1/2 wide, and 55 high; St Mary's chapel is 45 feet long and 30 wide, the choir transept is 92 feet long, the main transept is 122 1/2 feet long, Gundulph's Tower is 24 feet square and 95 high, the central tower is 156 feet high, the choir is 110 1/2 feet long, the Lady chapel is 44 feet long and 28 1/4 wide, and the entire pile is. 310 feet long. Part of the architecture is Norman, and all the rest is Early English. The W front is 94 feet long, and has a magnificent Norman doorway. The nave is the oldest in England, and chiefly Norman. The central tower was built in 1352, and a spire was erected on it in 1479 and taken down in 1827. Three decorated sedilia are on the S side of the choir, occupy the ancient site of the high altar, and were restored in 1825. The chief monuments are one of Lord Henniker (1803), a stone cist of Bishop Gnndulph (1107), a canopied effigies of Bishop Inglethorpe (1291), an effigies of Bishop Laurence (1274), a coped tomb of Bishop Glanville-(1214), a canopy and effigies of Bishop Bradfield (1283), a canopy and effigies of Bishop Shepey (1361), a table tomb of Bishop Lowe (1467), an effigies and two pyramidal canopies -restored in 1849-of Walter de Merton (1278), a brass tablet to the celebrated novelist Charles Dickens, who lived. at Gad's Hill, near Rochester; and a marble portrait medallion of Joseph Maas the singer, who was at one time a chorister in the cathedral. A crypt extends beneath all the choir, was completed in 1227, and once contained nine altars. Th& W front of the destroyed chapter-house has a fine Norman character, and is elaborately carved with zodiacal signs; a doorway of it, rich in sculptures, was restored in 1830. Three gates of the precinct wall, and an embattled tower-arch of the S cloister gate, still stand. The choir was restored in 1874-75, and the stone screen between the nave and choir was adorned with canopied niches, to contain figures of bishops, in 1890. Since 1885 several of the Norman windows have been filled with stained glass as memorials-one being dedicated to General Gordon, the hero of Khartoum. The establishment of the cathedral consists of a dean, four canons, three minor canons, and six lay clerks. The salary of the bishop is £3800, that of the dean £1500, and of the canons £750 each.
The see of Rochester claims to have been founded in 604. Some of the most prominent of the bishops were Putta who was deposed, Paulinus who was canonized, Gundulph the architect, Arnulph the compiler of " Textus Eoffensis," Walter the sportsman, Galeran who officially humbled himself at the altar of Canterbury, Glanville who severely mulcted the monks, Walter de Merton who founded a college at Oxford, John de Shepey who was Lord Chancellor, Rotherham called the munificent, Alcock founder of Jesus College at Cambridge, Fisher who became Cardinal and was executed, Eidley who died a martyr's death, Young who refused to be translated to Norwich, Neile called the Ambitious, Wamer the generous and brave, Sprat the wit and time-server, Atterbury the eloquent, Pearce who vainly entreated leave to renounce his mitre, and Horsley the learned. The diocese formerly included the whole of Herts and Essex, but these counties were separated from it and placed in the diocese of St Alban's in 1877. The present diocese comprises-Kent (part of), viz., the city and deanery of Rochester and the deaneries of Cobham and Gravesend; also part of the ecclesiastical parish of St Andrew, Mottingham ; London (part of), viz., the deaneries of Battersea, Camberwell, Clapham, Greenwich, Kennington, Lambeth, Lewisham, Newington, Southwark, Streatham, and Woolwich, and the ecclesiastical parishes of Putney and Roehampton; Surrey (part of), viz., the deaneries of Beddington, Godstone, Kingston, and Reigate, and that part of the deanery of Barnes in the county of Surrey; Sussex (part of), viz., part of the ecclesiastical parish of Felbridge. Population, 1,928,737.
St Margaret's Church was rebuilt in 1824,and contains a curious stone font and some old monuments. It has been well restored. The living is a vicarage in the diocese of Rochester; net value, £340 with residence. Patrons, the Dean and Chapter of Rochester. The church of St Matthew, Borstal, serves as a chapel of ease to St Margaret's. St Nicholas' Church was rebuilt in 1624, is a favourable specimen of debased Gothic, was restored in 1862 at a cost of £1700, and contains a curious octagonal stone font. The living is a vicarage; net value, £170 with residence. Patron, the Bishop of Rochester. St Clement's Church is now represented by only traces of its walls in houses on the N side of High Street. St Peter's Church stands in Troy Town, and is a building of stone and brick in the Decorated style. The living is a vicarage; net value, £185 with residence. Patrons, the Dean and Chapter of Rochester. There are Congregational, Bible Christian, Presbyterian, Methodist, and Wesleyan chapels, and a Society of Friends' meeting-house. There is also a Jews' synagogue, built in 1868. The cemetery for St Margaret's and St Peter's was formed in 1865, occupies 6 acres, and contains two chapels with connecting arcades and with a tower and spire, all in the Early English style. Population of the ecclesiastical parish of the cathedral church of Christ and the Blessed Virgin Mary, 156; of St Margaret, with Borstal St Matthew, 6980; of St Nicholas, with St Clement, 2778 ; and of St Peter, 5390.
The cathedral grammar school was founded by Henry VIII., gives free tuition and an annual allowance to each of twenty boys, admits other boys on payment of fees, and has four exhibitions at Oxford and two at Cambridge. Williamson's Free School was founded in 1701 by Sir Joseph Williamson, has an endowed income of nearly £1400 a year, and had Garrick for a pupil. A good grammar school for girls was founded in 1888. Richard Watt's Hospital was founded in 1579 for giving a night's lodging, a supper, and fourpence to each of twelve poor travellers; was rebuilt in 1771; bears an inscription stating that neither '' rogues nor proctors will be admitted,'' and has an endowed income of about £3500. A scheme was sanctioned in 1855 by the Court of Chancery to appropriate part of the funds of Watt's Hospital to the building and support of almshouses, and part toward the building and support of a general sick hospital. The almshouses were erected at a cost of £10,000, stand in the Maidstone Road, are very fine structures in the Tudor style with two splendid gateways, contain accommodation for ten men, ten women, and a porter, and have a yearly endowment from Watt's Hospital funds. The general hospital was built in 1862-63 at a cost of about £20,000, derived £4000 of that sum from Watt's charity, £4500 from a Government grant, and the rest from the revenues of St Bartholomew's Lepers' Hospital, founded in the time of the Crusades; stands in the New Road, is in the Tudor style, of red brick with stone dressings; consists of a main centre and projecting wings; contains accommodation for 100 patients, includes also surgeries, lecture-halls, nurses' rooms, and other departments, and draws £1000 a year from Watt's charity, and a considerable sum annually from the Lepers' Hospital estate. St Catherine's Hospital in Starhill is for sixteen aged females, and has about £548 a year from endowment. Other institutions are a house of industry, the Fort Pitt Military Hospital, and Hawkins' charity for decayed seamen.
The city has a head post office, two banks, and several good inns; is a port and a seat of quarter sessions and county courts; and publishes five newspapers. Weekly markets are held on Tuesdays. An oyster fishery is carried on, considerable business in connection with the arsenal at Chatham is done, and an establishment for making patent steam engines employs many hands. A new quay was constructed in 1862 at a cost of about £1500. The number of vessels registered as belonging to the port in 1895 was 1050 (65,000 tons). The entries and clearances each average 7700 (620,000 tons) per annum.
Rochester was first chartered by Henry II., sent two members to Parliament from the time of Edward I. until 1885, when the number was reduced to one under the Redistribution of Seats Act. It is governed by a mayor, 6 aldermen, and 17 councillors, who act as the urban district council. The borough boundaries are the same municipally as parliamentarily, and include the two city parishes, the cathedral precinct, Strood-Intra and Media, and small parts of the parishes of Chatham and Frindsbury. Area of the borough, 2909 acres; population, 26,290; area of the civil parish, 2334 acres; population of the civil parishes of Cathedral Precincts, 156; St Margaret, 12,370 ; and St Nicholas, 2778.
Rodmersham, a parish, with a village, in Kent, 1 3/4 mile SE of Sittingbourne station on the L.C. & D.R. It has a post office under Sittingbourne; money order and telegraph office, Sittingbourne. Acreage, 1234; population, 407. The living is a vicarage in the diocese of Canterbury; net value, £110 with residence. The church is Early English, in good condition, and contains three curious antique wooden seats, overhung by a canopy, and supposed to have been formed for knights of St John. There is a Bible Christians' chapel.
Waldershare, a parish in Kent, 2 1/2 miles E of Shepherds Well station on the L.C. & D.R., and 5 NNW of Dover. Post town, Dover. Acreage, 1020; population of the civil parish, 140; of the ecclesiastical, 572. The manor belonged to the Malmaynes, passed to the Monyns, the Furneses, and Lord North, and with Waldershare Park belongs now to the Earl of Guildford. The mansion was built in the time of William III. by Sir H. Furnese, and the grounds are extensive, and contain a monumental tower which commands a view to the coast of France. The living is a vicarage, with Ashley annexed, in the diocese of Canterbury; gross value, £175 with residence. The church is a small building of flint, has been well restored, and contains some handsome memorials to the Monyns and Furnese families.
Transcribed from The Comprehensive Gazetteer of England and Wales 1894-5
Transcribed from The Comprehensive Gazetteer of England and Wales 1894-5